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(No Model.) 2Sheets .Sheet 1.

I. H. MAMBERT. 4

METHOD OF ATTAGHING GUSSETS. No. 347,882. Patented Aug. 24,1886.

(No Model.) 2 Sheets-Sheet 2. I. HJMAMBERT.

METHOD OF ATTAGHING GUSSETS. No. 347,882. Patented Aug. 24, 1886.

UNITED STATES PATENT ()FFICE.

ISAAC H. MAMBERT, OF ALBANY, NE\V YORK.

METHOD OF ATTACHING GUSSETS.

SPECIFICATION forming part of Letters Patent No. 347,882,6ated August 24, 1886.

Application filed April 7, 1886.

To all whom it may concern.-

Be it known that I, ISAAC H. MAMBERT, a resident of the city of Albany, in the county of Albany and State of New York, have invented certain new and useful Improvements in the Method of Attaching Gussets; and I do hereby declare that the following is a full, clear, and exact description of the invention, that will enable others skilled in the art to which it appertains to make and use the same, reference being had to the accompanying drawings, and to the letters of reference marked thereon,which form a part of this specification.

Similar letters refer to similar parts in the several figures therein.

My invention consists of the novel method of attaching gussets hereinafter described, and pointed out in the claim.

The object of the invention is fullyset forth in connection with the following description.

Figure 1 of the drawings is a plan view of a gusset in position upon one edge of the flap of a shirt-front in position to be secured thereto when the flap is hemmed. Fig. 2 is asimilar view of the opposite edge of the flap, showing the gusset secured thereto by the hem-seam. Figs. 3 and 4 are plan views of the gusset detached. Fig. 5 is a plan view of portions of the front and back parts of ashirt stitched toas their flaps, showing the gusset secured to both flaps. Fig. 6 is a similar view of the same edges, right side out and secured together, as shown in Fig. 5, having the front fiap turned up to show the gusset.

A shirt-body is usually made of two parts a front and back part-which are similar to each other in form,and stitched together along their edges part way only down their sides, leaving loose flaps at their lower ends. The end oftheline of stitching at thejunction ofthe flaps,which may be styled the flap-opening, is subjected to excessive strainsin use, and frequently breaks,to the great injury of the shirt. Various styles and forms of gussets have been stitched to the parts to prevent the flapopening from ripping; but much time is required to attach them, which is of very great importance in the manufacture of shirts in large quantities, as practiced at the present day. The appearance of the gusset as heretofore gether, wrong side out, along one'edge as far Serial No. 198,005. (No model.)

attached is frequently ungainly and objectionable to the wearer.

By my improved method of attaching the gussets very little extra time or labor is re- 50 quired.

The gusset A is made of a separate piece of fabric,preferably cut to about the form shown in Fig. 3, and doubled bya central longitudinal fold, (Z, to the form shown in Fig. 4,though it may be made of a single ply or thickness of about the form shown in Fig. 4.

G 0 represent the flaps of the front portion,

F, of the shirt, and B B the flaps of the back portion. The gusset is laid upon one side of one of the parts, as shown in Fig. 1, in a position such that theedge b will coincide with the upper part of the flap-opening, and sufficiently removed from the edge eto permit of its being turned over upon the gusset to form a suitable hem, E. The edge of theflap Ois then hemmed in the usualmanner up to and including the edge I) of the gusset, which firmly secures the gusset to the flap G, as shown in Fig. 2. The part so provided with the hemmed-in gusset or gusscts is then laid down upon the other part of theshirt, so that the edges of the parts coincide down to the flap opening. These edges are then run or stitched together, as by line of stitching S, down to the flap-opening, and then down the edge a of the gusset,which has been folded over so that said edge coincides with the edge of flap B, as shown in Fig. 5, which firmly secures the gusset to the two flaps at their opening. It will thus be seen that one side of the gusset is secured to the front flap, when it is hemmed, and the other side to the back flap by a continuation of the same line of stitching which is employed to secure the two parts together. This line of stitching may be such as is employed to produce any of the well-known seams as run,

felled, or bagged seam.

By means of a well-known sewing-machine. attachment called a feller, the edges of the run-seam (shown in Fig. 5) can be turned in, as indicated by dotted lines, and stitched down to form the felled seam D,whieh gives the seam a more finished appearance on the inside of 5 the shirt and strengthens the attachment of the gusset.

It is obvious that my improved method may be employed to attach gussets to any garment having two edges united by a seam extending part way of their length only and the edges of 5 the flaps'hemmed.

I am aware that Patent No. 269,463 describes attaching'a gusset in the hem all around the opening; but this leaves a wide gap, which is very objectionable.

What I claim as new, and desire to protect by Letters Patent, is-- An improved method of attaching gussets between the flaps of shirts, which consists in placing the gusset so that one edge will coin- 15 cide with the upper part of the flap-opening and be far enough from the shirt edge to allow the latter to be turned over to form a hem; secondly, in hemmingthe edge of the shirt-flap and the said gusset edge together and laying them upon the opposite flap of shirt until the edges coincide down to the flap-opening; and, thirdly, stitching these edges together down to the flap-opening and then down the opposite gusset edge, said edge being folded over to coincide with the edge of said opposite 2 5 shirt-flap, as set forth.

In testimony whereof I have hereunto set my hand this 5th day of April, 1886.

ISAAC H. MAMBERT.

Vitnesses:

GEO. 'H. MOSHER, CHAS. L. ALDEN. 

